A staff meal at a typical restaurant is an opportunity for the entire crew to be treated as equal members of a “family.” However, in Abe Koogler’s Staff Meal currently being served up at Playwrights Horizons, there is something odd transpiring around the table. While the enthralled servers moan in delight, what we see is unremarkable. The true source of their reaction is imperceivable to outsiders.
At this same unnamed venue, Ben (Greg Keller) and Mina (Susannah Flood) are out on a what would strike most of us as a dreadful first date, though they seem quite comfortable with each other’s horror-tinged stories. Their waiter (Hampton Fluker) is on a mesmerizing walk through the dark, deep, and disorganized wine cellar. And the Servers (Jess Barbagallo and Carmen M. Herlihy) are just giddy to be employed by the elusive Gary Robinson (Erin Markey who is also — somehow — the chef and a vagrant) a man of wealth whose philosophy is what keeps them full. Along the way, these characters don’t just break the fourth wall, they bulldoze it, build a fresh one, and then smash that one with a mallet as exemplified by Audience Member (Stephanie Berry).
Similar to many artistic endeavors that were completed during the pandemic, Koogler’s piece is much more intent on capturing an unfamiliar mood than it is on telling a story. The restaurant at its center is a unique universe with a distinct environment and even — it would seem — its own gravitation pull. Individual scenes are like a Matryoshka Doll in reverse, with each character revealing a bigger, more colorful veneer without changing much of the plot’s shape. Koogler imbues them all with astoundingly vivid and detailed memories and imaginations. Poetic meditations on food, love, the past, and being of service are passionately delivered. But while the people on stage search for common ground, you too might be casting about in hopes of feeling a connection.
Under the hand of director Morgan Green, the artistic team functions in concert to support the absurdist tenor of the work. Comparable to quarantine at COVID’s height, time spirals and sense of place becomes illusive. Jian Jung’s papered walls are both elegant and nondescript. The costumes by Kaye Voyce start off as commonplace and morph into outright bizarre. As the players grow increasingly wary, Masha Tsimring’s lighting follows that tone. Tei Bow’s sounds and music complete the vague and uneasy landscape.
Not unlike the restaurant that is Staff Meal’s home base, this play serves up some novel flavors. If you are willing to hover somewhere between drama and performance art, you might savor the experience without the need to define each morsel. But also akin to dining in that central establishment, the undertaking might leave you feeling hungry for something more solid.
Staff Meal continues through May 19 at the Peter Jay Sharp Theater on the 4th floor of Playwrights Horizons at 416 West 42nd Street. Running time is one hour and 35 minutes with no intermission. Tickets are $51 – $91 and can be purchased at https://my.playwrightshorizons.org/events/staffmeal.
The Unforgettable Line 